Questions and Answers
Your Questions About Cheap 1 Day Car Insurance
Can I register and insure the car in the new province on the same day I get there?
I am moving to alberta (my parents are kicking me out so might as well go somewhere where it’s much easier to find a job: only about 6% unemployment vs about 9% in Vancouver) And since car insurance is like 3 times cheaper in alberta as well I am thinking if I can insure the car under the new province as soon as I get there. Or do I need to have lived a certain amount of time there before I can?
The difference between alberta and bc is unbelievable. You cannot insure your car (at the insurance company) until you register your car (at licence and registry). You cannot register your car until your car has passed an out of province inspection AND you yourself have valid alberta identification. You cannot get valid identification (from licence and registry) until you have a place to reside in alberta, and have proof to wit. Proof would in-tail at least two letters addressed to you at your new alberta address from agencies such as your bank, phone statements, epcor gas, cable bill, government of canada, to name a few.
So, in review…..
1. Get new address and proof to wit
2. Get alberta identification
3. Get your car inspected
4. Get your car registered
5. Get your car insured
What is the best/cheapest young drivers insurance company?
I am learning to drive and purely for future reference what insurance companies are the cheapest to go buy for first time drivers. At the moment im just looking on AutoTrader and eBay and copying and pasting them into various companies
if you can speak from experince it would really help…
There is no single company that is “the cheapest”. The way they price their policies is based on a number of things, for example your car, your driving history (claims/convictions), your postcode (HUGE rating factor), where the vehicle is kept (driveway, road etc) and how long you’ve held your licence. Different companies will price different risks in different ways. They’re basically taking a gamble with themselves – will you claim in the next year? They have to price policies to offset claims costs associated with specific groups of people (unfortunately young males tend to have more costly claims than most, and 1 in 4 young drivers will have a crash in their first year of insurance, so they pay the most).
To get a good idea of who will be cheapest for you, get on a couple of the price comparison websites. Run your details through with something like a 1.0 Corsa, 1.2 Clio or whatever car you’d like to drive (being realistic, stick to a small engine, no mods) and see where you go from there. Perhaps try to add a parent as a named driver too (not the main driver, this is illegal and you can get done for fraud and you and said parent can be prosecuted for you driving without valid insurance), as this can bring the cost down a bit. Do pass plus too, several companies offer an attractive discount for it.
I got my first car when I was 22, I’d held my licence for 11 months. I live in a medium/moderate risk area, I drive a 1998 Citroen Xsara 1.4i, and I paid about £1450 for my first year’s insurance, but this was three years ago. The average cost of insurance has trebled over the past three years, so take this into consideration. I’m now 25, 2yr NCD, same car, same address and all that, and mine was £989 this year.
One tip I have for you is save a lot of money, and pay the whole lot by card. Some insurers have an APR of about 29% if you pay monthly (was with Hastings Direct last year, theirs was about that…), so you could potentially save around £500 there. Try having a higher excess, but think about what you would actually claim for, and whether you could afford the excess in the event of a claim. A higher excess can bring it down too. Also, don’t assume third party, fire and theft is the cheapest – a lot of the time comprehensive cover is cheaper.
Perhaps look into insurers who fit a black box to your car to monitor your driving (times of day, speeds etc). If you aim to be a safe driver and not a boy racer, this could bring your costs down a lot.
Hope this was of some use to you Good luck with your lessons!
How do I or what do i have to do to ship my car from Florida to Puerto Rico?
I’m actually living in Iowa, but I’m going to move to my home town in Puerto Rico, due to a divorce and would like to ship my car there, but dont have any clue how to do it. Please help!
I know people who have used Rosa del Monte and have had good experiences. Personally, I’ve used Crowley with good experiences as well.
Shipping can cost anywhere from $600 (cheapest I’ve heard of- EVER) to $3,000+ (for an SUV from Washington State, which required land+sea travel) From Florida, it shouldn’t cost more than $1,000 from port of Jacksonville. Once it’s arrived, you will have to pay import duties on the car. There’s a form on the PR Rev. Office website which will quote the taxes for most vehicles based on the VIN number, the link is: http://www.hacienda.gobierno.pr/vehiculos/index.html The minimum import duty is $750, but other cars are much higher… My VW R32 cost me nearly $9,000 in taxes. At this time you will also pay a tire tax and the ACAA insurance tax. SAVE ALL OF THIS PAPERWORK!
One tip, take the license plates off before you ship the car, and travel with the plates. Put them back on once you collect the car in PR.
Once you have collected the car and paid your fees, you have 30 days to register it/inspect it/etc. First think you’ll need to do is get it inspected… This can be done at most service stations. I suggest doing this after you’ve collected the car because A- you will need gas since the car is shipped with less than 1/4 tank, and B- the next step can take a full day.
You will need to go to CESCO (PR DMV), and start the registration process. Depending on your town, the local CESCO may have a colecturia (Cashier) who sells gov. Stamps. The DMV clerks are not allowed to take cash, only the stamps. If there isn’t a colecturia at the local DMV, find one… Usually city hall can help you or the PR Rev. Dept.
Bring the following:
-Photocopy AND Original of your SS card
-completed registration form
-original title in your name
-Bill of sale if available
-$10 government stamp (get it at the colecturia)
-enough gov. Stamps to cover 1/2% (.5%) of the cars -appraised value/sale price (I’ve never been able to get a straight answer for this)
-originals and photocopies of all paperwork you were given at the port. ALL OF IT.
Prepare for a lot of frustration, a lot of runaround, and a lot of walking from office to office. When it comes to dealing with the PR DMV you can never have enough paperwork for them… Bring things you wouldn’t think you need (passport, vehicle registration (not title, actual registration), US insurance paperwork, ANYTHING). You never know what they’ll ask for next.
What kind of difference will there be in these insurance prices?
I currently have a 2006 Jeep Liberty that has 15000 miles. I am switching to a 2003 Audi A4 1.8 T. Has 42000 miles. Both are financed. I am getting rid of the jeep and want to know what kind of jump I will have if any? I currently pay 147 a month for the jeep. The audi is a little older which is better on cost but a sports carish. Any help would be great. I am trying to contact my agent but its too late in the day. Just trying to get an idea.
I paid 270 for my Jeep Liberty 2000. Call your insurance company. Nobody on this answer board can tell you. I found good and cheap insurance companies Here:http://all-car-insurance.blogspot.com/Good luck!
What are all the costs for buying a car?
I am 17 and have purchased a fix up car. Well, I know obviously there is the price of the car, and insurance. But what else is there? This is all I can think of and I’m not sure if there are any more.
-Initial cost of the car
-obviously any body work, and or fix ups (I work at a shop so this is of little concern for me)
Anything else I have overlooked?
You can bi-pass the E-Test by trading back and forth the title before every test but some places that cost money. It doesn’t work everywhere because they have caught on in many places.
Insurance $150 monthly depending on what state but at 17 you’re looked at as a liability
Body work Why bother? Don’t scratch my dent
Get her a good tune up. Bring her to the mechanic and let him test drive it around the block a few times and he’ll let you know if it’s safe.
Gas…You’re pretty screwed unless you buy a diesel which is prolly over your head even a used one. If the car has 100k miles on it even with a rice burner 2.0/1.5 liter engine it’s gonna have bad compression.
And walk around the car make sure you got both plates, all working lights, air pressure, brakes and when you buy the car bring someone else with you so they can start it. You’re gonna need to stand behind the car to check if the exhaust smoke is white. Do this on a warm day, if it’s white the engine could have a multitude of issues. If the car is in the late 90s it has a ”plug” for hooking up a testing unit that tells you important information about the car like fuel air mixture, plugs, exhaust temp and transmission. Do this before you hand over the money, it’s cheap. I have mine done at autozone for free. They just walk out and do it, there’s nothing to it.
Who can recommend a reputable car rental dealership?
We have never rented a car in Mexico before but now would like to rent a car for 1 week from Playa del Carmen, Mexico. Can someone give me some tips on what is a good price, from where and what I should know.
I recommend taking a taxi if you can. Taxis are cheap. Rental car places in Mexico are scam artists. Also, you have to take their “optional” insurance or they won’t rent to you in most cases. Expect to pay $100 per day for the vehicle. Advantage Car Rental has treated me well in Mexico, to answer your question. Thrifty has been the worst. However, every place is different depending on the owner and service may not be company specific.
Also, don’t trust the quotes on-line… Expect to pay the $100 per day when you get there once they tack on insurance and taxes.
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